Although today’s hike of 23 km was definitely not the longest so far, it was the hottest and hardest up to today. Hardest, because the beginning part included a very steep climb over dunes via twisty-turny paths with lots of roots and loose rocks, which meant paying constant attention to where I was putting my feet. However, every so often I was able to look up and see the most spectacular views across the bay, including a view into the prison at Santoña, which we had skirted around on the way to climbing over the dunes. It was an experimental penal colony with the objective of creating a ‘cell to workshop’ culture of training and support, but from what I’ve read on the internet that objective has been abandoned and it is now a normal prison, which still benefits from amazing grounds.

Although the dunes walk was hard, Marissa very kindly took my heavy backpack on the second part of that of that route. This quite literally lightened my load, as I carried her backpack which was significantly lighter. After we conquered the dunes we descended into the town of Noja where we stopped for a beer and some olives at the Camino Alberge. We also came across the ultimate in mad-cat-lady enterprises, in the shape of recycling bins turned into ‘cat alberges’ – the sign says it is for local street cats, but I am sure if your cat expresses an interest in doing the Camino, it would be welcome in the Alberge.

After that the day became hard because of heat and walking on asphalt, rather than because of hard climbs, and although it was less exciting, it still offered some spectacular views and also delicious wild plums.

Sarah and I were, however, delighted to find our beds for the night in a beautiful old stone farmhouse, which has been lovingly restored, and a delicious tomato salad.

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